Pit beef is Baltimore's signature meat. It's what we natives do when faced with a hunk of cow and some fire. Unfortunately, many purveyors of our local open-pit pride tend to go a little long, serving up beef that is dry and stringy. Sorry, hon, but horseradish and bbq sauce can only cover so many sins, and overcooked pit beef ain't one of 'em. Chaps makes a point of doing pit beef right: tender, flavorful beef piled high on fresh kaiser rolls. You can lean in the kitchen window to plead for the chewy end pieces or the rarest, reddest middle slices. Ultimately, they leave all the doodads, the onions and sauces and whatnot, for you to apply as you will, which is as it should be.