Arguably Baltimore's first great restaurant, Tio Pepe invites heated debate among the citizenry, some of whom think it's slipped, most of whom find things just as they were when the restaurant opened in 1968. The candlelit whitewashed grottolike interior still stimulates romantic feelings, and the brightly dressed waiters still ruthlessly run the show. Prepare to spend a long, leisurely meal, and clear up some room on your credit card allowance. Tio Pepe is really expensive, best left for special occasions (or try it for lunch sometime). Always start with the shrimp in garlic sauce, follow with the fillet of sole with bananas, and try to persuade your dining companion to splurge on the suckling pig or, failing that, the slow-cooked paella. Jackets are required.