Notorious as a preppy headquarters, the Mount Washington Tavern is a multistory institution complete with a retractable-roof garden atrium and reclaimed furnishings from Old Baltimore. The tavern's menu has evolved of late, accommodating such unmasculine fare as grilled eggplant with goat cheese, ahi tuna clubs, and chicken with sun-dried tomatoes and brie. But the lacrosse-boy selections still predominate--hearty Black Angus steaks, raw-bar items, oversized burgers, and a smashing Reuben. Sunday brunch features a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar. After 25 years, it's all taken for granted, but things really click handsomely here.