Chameleon Café is one of those truly magical, invaluable local restaurants where the food is always inventive and excellent yet well-priced, the wine list is intelligently chosen, and a table is almost always available. The menu changes seasonally but always shows classic Continental flare with offerings like braised veal cheeks with grapes and cremini mushrooms or house-made charcroute garni. Despite the sophisticated menu, Chameleon has a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere and knowledgeable but affable servers. Don't miss the house-made desserts. Kudos to chef/co-owner--and Parkville native--Jeff Smith for returning to the 'hood to bring us this stellar but comfortable bistro.