Ethel and Ramone's

Effusive chef Ed Bloom fills his bright and snazzy dining room with the heady aromas of good Creole cooking. His definitive specialty is an intense, sweat-inducing gumbo, constructed from a slow-cooked dark roux and three stocks, outfitted with a choice of andouille sausage, blackened chicken, shrimp, or steak. Also remarkable: the Creole shrimp boat with green-lipped mussels and blackened fish, the pan-fried chicken with pan gravy, the fresh vegetables, and the three daily homemade soups. If the front porch isn't open, seat yourselves at the curvy bar by the kitchen and watch the food-loving staff in action.